All About Fish: July 2013

Wednesday, July 31, 2013

Find Out All the Amazing Secrets of Creating a Home For Your Goldfish

You actually need to get the aquarium ready before you get your goldfish home. You have to decide on the size of the tank as well as where do you want to keep your aquarium. Where to set up the tank is an important point you must decide on. Apart from the angle of interior decoration, you need to keep in mind several very practical points:

Is there enough room in the aquarium?

Make sure there is because you will need to move around it while cleaning it. Don't put your aquarium up against a wall because you will need to check the back of the aquarium for the filtration. Don't put it on a shelf, as you would need to check the top of the aquarium for water changes and lighting. Your aquarium should be well ventilated to prevent it from getting overheating or developing mold.

Are there electrical sockets nearby?

You will need to have electrical outputs near the aquarium to run the filter and the air pump. Make sure that no loose cords are hanging dangerously around it. The wires should be out of view but the switches should be accessible. Make sure that you do not keep the aquarium near heat or AC vents, as they can overheat the tank.

Is your aquarium getting in the way?

You do not want to keep your Goldfish tank near a doorway or any place, where there is too much disturbance, as in people passing by, doors slamming shut, etc. That's because all these things might cause vibrations in the water levels and stress the goldfish out. They are overall placid things and need some peace and quiet. Also keep away the aquarium from direct as well as indirect sunlight as it may raise the room temperature and affect the water temperature, which means you must not place your aquarium near a window.

Is it in a place where you can change the water easily?

You will need to change the water in your aquarium once a month, so make sure you also have convenient access to a sink, and a faucet. Your aquarium might be too big to haul to the kitchen and you might end up sloshing water on the carpet and even hurting the goldfish.

Can whatever furniture you are putting in the aquarium withstand its weight?

An aquarium can get quite heavy once it is filled up with water. Make sure you put it on something that is strong and that the floor can take the weight too! Also make sure that the aquarium is stable and is not wobbling around dangerously. Consider buying an aquarium stand that would keep it level.

If you want to know more about goldfish, than why not visit my site and pick up your own Comprehensive Guide to Goldfish! http://www.SecretsOfGoldfish.com (Recommended)

Learn All the Secrets of the Amazing Goldfish

Goldfish are known to be the most common and popular choice for pets. But why do people bring home Goldfish? They can't run or let out a squeak leave alone express themselves and they definitely can't play catch. All they will do is just swim and swim and swim and yet they manage to make that connection with us and we love them for it. If you ask a Goldfish lover what makes them great, the answer would be: they are great because they just are!

Are Goldfish really gold?

One of the probable reasons why people are attracted to Goldfish could be because of their golden hues. It gives them that exotic and different look. However, they aren't really golden - more a combination (or absence) of the two or three types of pigment cells black, yellow and red - that give the Goldfish a variety of color effects. Goldfish can be golden, red, white, bronze and even blue and black. In fact, when Goldfish are born they are neither gold nor orange. They are a very tan or olive kind of shade and sometimes they can be pretty dark. It's only when they grow that they begin to change their color.

Essentially a wild species, Goldfish probably acquired their color over the ages and thanks to genetic mutations and selective breeding we have Goldfish that can range from silver to gold, red to orange, with a single tail or a fantail and some with pop eyes and without dorsal fins! The color of goldfish depends on the environment it is bred in as well as the light it is exposed to. Goldfish is one species that has been bred, crossbred and changed quite a bit and this has been going on since more than hundreds of years. But when did it all begin?
The Birth of the Goldfish

It all began in Ancient China when the goldfish as we know it today was bred from the gibel carp which is found in slow moving waters in South China. The first evidence we have is in the year 265-415 when the Chun dynasty recorded the gold hue of this fish. From then on documents show that the goldfish were raised in ponds within Buddhist monasteries and mostly in the houses of royalty and other aristocrats.

It was during the reign on the Ming Dynasty that records show the Goldfish being raised in bowls as indoor pet. This in fact helped the Goldfish to evolve double tail and anal fins, red and white coloration and even dispense with their dorsal fins. Goldfish became linked to prosperity, fortune and good luck and even inspired art in China which was reflected in the goldfish motifs used in silks, ceramics and jade carvings.

Soon they began to become more commonly available and made their first trip out of their homeland to Japan in 1603. In 1611- 1691 goldfish were exported to Europe. It was in 1874 that Goldfish made an entry into United States of America. The 19th Century saw

the demand for aquariums and goldfish grow. The world's first public aquarium opened in London in 1853.

Today's modern Goldfish has its very own definition: "A small reddish golden Chinese carp kept for ornament" (Oxford Dictionary, American Edition, Oxford University Press). Its official biological name is Carassius auratus and but it's commonly known as the golden carp or simply the goldfish.

If you want to know more about goldfish, than why not visit my site and pick up your own Comprehensive Guide to Goldfish! http://www.SecretsOfGoldfish.com (Recommended)

Efficient Care Requirements for Aquarium Fish

You need not to purchase the most expensive kinds of fish just to set up the best aquarium. This can be luxurious already. What you need to know is the proper way of maintaining your aquarium to make it pleasing to the eyes at all times.

Besides all other aquarium supplies, the fish is the most important. It cannot be called an aquarium without the species that will swim into it. This can come in varying types depending on the aquarium you put up.

Aquarium fish can be purchased in extraordinary color patterns. It comes in red, white, green, purple and even blue. In most cases, the male fish has brighter color and longer fins than the female fish. Typically, the more vibrant is the better because it can add appeal inside the aquarium.

There is a specific lifespan for the fish. However, it can be changed through your maintenance. There are times that fish has longer lifespan but due to your negligence, it can be shorten to months instead of years. This will just be a waste of money so better to take note of this factor.

Below are some reminders for proficient care of your aquarium fish:

1. Have regular check for the unnecessary things that may fall into the aquarium.

Cleanliness is very essential for your maintenance. This will not concern the pleasing appeal of the aquarium alone but most particularly the health of the species residing in the habitat. You can use filtration supply on this matter. Cleaning habit can be done weekly or you can do it gradually if you see some falling food remains at the top of the aquarium.

2. Beware from buying aggressive species.

Peaceful types of fish are more advisable because aggressive specie can affect the entire habitat. One can kill the other. Prevent this scenario to happen because you can probably end up with your aquarium to nothing.

3. Do not overfeed the aquarium fish.

Some fish are only required to be fed once a day although others are for twice. Overfeeding is not helpful nor will it make your fish grow larger instantly. Many cases have shown that it can cause death to your fish.

4. When changing the water, add product that will remove chlorine in the water.

Chlorine can be toxicant for your fish. You can purchase products from pet stores in order to eliminate the amount of chlorine in the water.

If you care for your fish, then better follow the advice that will cater your aquarium fish needs.

This content is provided by Low Jeremy and may be used only in its entirety with all links included. For more info on Aquariums, please visit [http://aquarium.articlekeep.com].

Tropical Fish and Aquarium

Some of tropical fish hobbyists' dream that keeping gorgeous tropical fish in stylist aquariums in their living rooms will create a soothing environment for family happy hours.

I share with you below some tips of my own experience for home decorating ideas.

The key factor is on the type of tropical fish as they have different shapes, sizes, colors and characters. When we put these lovely tropical fish together in a natural like aquarium will provide a dramatic impact.

Please be aware different types of tropical fish have different characters which help us to decorate or choose whether to have freshwater or sea-water aquarium to suite our tropical fish nature beauties.

I’m used to prefer freshwater tank with damsels, mollies, downfish and guppy as they are less expensive and require less effort to maintain the fish and tank.

I would like to share with your my experience of searching for inforamtion on tropical fish and aquarium. I'm sure, more often than not we are fed up with the quality of tropical fish products in the market. The information they offered their books were over priced, and generally didn't focus on telling us how to get the best results using methods that don't require a lot of time and effort and that don't cost the earth. Both of these things I believe take the fun and enjoyment out of keeping fish. After all, something that costs piles of money and requires a lot of work on us and it can't really be deemed as enjoyable... well I don't think so anyway!

More Information [http://www.supernetknowledge.com]

What Do You Know About Fish Tank Care?

Having an aquarium can be a source of great joy and satisfaction. People who have fish as pet find that they feel calmer and happier when they watch the aquarium. Fish make really great pets, and do not make hardly any demands on your time or any other resource. This is why they are considered favorite pets in millions of houses.

Some Facts and Myths about Fish Tank Care

There are many myths surrounding the setting up and maintaining of the fish tank care. Let us look into some of them:

Myth - you need to remove the fish from the aquarium before washing it or changing the water.

Truth - the fish are actually stressed terribly when displaced from their environment, specifically after being chased and caught in nets.

Myth - Changing the gravel is the best way of having it cleaned or washing it under the tap water.

Truth - changing of gravel will actually harm the fish, as with time the gravel will house friendly bacteria that help in clearing the fish waste, which in the long run will actually poison your fish.

Myth - you need to wash the tank as often as you can;

Truth - you should actually wash as rarely as possible, because the longer you leave the system by itself, the better the system works. You should have good filters attached to it and ensure that the water is oxygenated well.

Myth - you should replace all the water from the tank and replace it fully with new water every time you wash the tank;

Truth - you should actually replace only 20-25% of the water, otherwise you will create an imbalance in the system and harm your fish.

Myth - you should abundantly feed your fish if you will be missing for a few days from the house;

Truth - you should never overfeed your fish; this will not only cloud and pollute the water it will tempt the fish to overeat and kill them.

What Plants Do in a Fish Tank?

Live plants are an essential presence in every aquarium for many reasons. First, they add a natural and attractive look to the aquarium, and secondly, they provide the pet fish with a natural source of food. Presence of live plants reduces the growth of algae in the fish tank, but most importantly, live plants produce oxygen through photosynthesis and continuously add it to the water for the fish to breathe. Also, plants absorb wastes of the fish like exhaled carbon dioxide and ammonia; if allowed to accumulate in the tank water it can be hazardous for the fish's health.

Keeping a Healthy Aquarium with Plants

Certain considerations need to be taken into account when letting live plants inhabit your home aquarium. The following points are important to consider:

Only select those species of plants for your fish tank that can stay healthy while completely submerged. Make sure the plants you select are able to survive well in the existing lighting conditions and chemical nature of the tank water; most plants are suited to live in pH values 6.5-7.5. Also, check about the suitable temperature range for the plants you select. Certain plant types, like sagittaria, are fast growing and tolerant of even hard water; thus, they are ideal for the first inhabitants of the fish tank. More sensitive plants can be added later for keeping diversity and giving the aquarium a natural lush and attractive look. For visual effects, you can use a combination of plants of varying sizes so as to impart an impression of depth and contrast. Red plants, like ludwigia, bring a beautiful contrast against the natural green of other species. Plants with tall stems and those bearing adventitious roots need regular pruning so as to keep the other plants healthy against their overshadowing effects.

Fish tank care is something you learn with practice. The aquarium will become a proper self-sustaining system, which will need to be nurtured to stay so; in this case, fish tank care will not involve cleaning, as much as maintaining the right balance of this system. With time, and if your fish tank care is okay, you will need to wash and/or maintain the tank very rarely because the system itself will take care of itself, just like in the nature.

For more information about fish tank care visit [http://www.fish-tank.biz]

Beacon Fish

Family: Characidae

Species: Hemigrammus ocellifer

Size: 5cm (2 inch)

Diet: Omnivorous

Tank levels: All

Habitat: Rivers in the Amazon region and Guyana

Other Name: Head and Tail-Light Fish, Motorist Fish

Comments: The deep body outline of the Beacon Fish follows the general tetra pattern. The identifying features of this silvery grey fish are the bright red top of the eye, and the gold spot behind the adipose fin, above a dark blotch at the base of the caudal fin. Without doubt this fish has a strange name that matches the look of the fish itself. Easy to keep and looks good in a fully planted aquarium mixed with other small fish species of a similar size.

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This fish comes from the "Tropical Fish" family species of fish. I hope you enjoyed this fish profile that I put together to help people to choose the right fish for the right aquarium tank setup you may own, or be thinking of buying in the future. If you require more information about keeping fish in general and what are the right fish to choose for your tank setups, you can always visit my site called "GB Aquarium" and see what's posted new there and also join in the discussion taking place.

[http://www.garybolton.co.uk]

X-Ray Fish

Family: Characidae

Species: Pristella maxillaris

Size: 2.5cm (1 inch)

Diet: Omnivorous

Tank levels: All

Habitat: Inland waters of Venezuela, Guyana, and Amazonian Brazil

Remarks: This is a decorative, long standing aquarium favourite. Due to demand, most specimens are now commercially bred rather than wild caught.

Comments: The body shape of the X-Ray Fish follows the traditional tetra pattern, with equal curvature on dorsal and ventral surfaces. The main distinguishing feature of this fish is the lack of colour and apparent translucence. The internal organs in their silver sac are visible. If ever there was a strange looking fish species this is one for sure. Still, a very good species of fish for a community setup.

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[http://www.garybolton.co.uk]

Marbled Hatchetfish

Family: Gasteropelecidae

Species: Carnegiella strigata strigata

Size: 4.5cm (1 three quarter inch)

Diet: Omnivorous

Tank levels: Upper

Habitat: Streams and rivers throughout Amazonia and Guyana

Remarks: Floating plants will provide the shade required for this subspecies.

Comments: This fish is very deep-bodied with a flat dorsal contour. The colour is normally silvery purple, but this specimen is showing green background colours. A dark line runs from the eye to the caudal peduncle, below which several dark, broken lines cross the lower body. Another dark line curves up along the front of the body. Pectoral fins are very well developed, whereas the pelvic fins are hardly noticeable. Very trange fish to watch and look at.

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[http://www.garybolton.co.uk]

Blind Cave Fish

Blind Cave

Fish Family: Characidae

Species: Astyanax fasciatus mexicanus

Size: 9cm (3 half inch)

Diet: Omnivorous

Tank levels: All

Habitat: Underground cave waters in Mexico

Remarks: The eyes of this species have become superfluous as it navigates in totally dark underground waters using its lateral line system. It is content in a community tank, and rocky caves make appropriate additions.

Other Names: Formerly classified as Anoptichthys jordani

Comments: The head of this unusual fish is notable for the absence of eyes. The body has a highly arched dorsal profile and is almost featureless, being plain pink with a silvery sheen. Fins contain some colouring. I guess the saying goes. If you live in a room that never has lights on. This is the fish for you.

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[http://www.garybolton.co.uk]

Black-Winged Hatchetfish

Family: Gasteropelecidae

Species: Carnegiella marthae

Size: 4cm (1 half inch)

Diet: Omnivorous

Tank levels: Upper

Habitat: Forest streams in the Orinoco region

Remarks: The aquarium should be spacious with a secure hood as these fish can leap through the air for some distance, gliding with their wing-like pectoral fins.

Comments: The shape of this hatchetfish is typically very deep with a virtually flat dorsal contour. Light creamy yellow above the lateral line shades down to grey-silver, and a dark outline follows the ventral edge and terminates beneath the eye. The entire body is covered with tiny dark speckles. Pectoral fins are well developed for leaping and gliding above water. This has to be one of the more stranger hatchetfish in the species.

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[http://www.garybolton.co.uk]

Myer's Hatchetfish

Family: Gasteropelecidae

Species: Carnegiella myersi

Size: 2.5cm (1 inch)

Diet: Omnivorous

Tank levels: Upper

Habitat: Streams and rivers of Peru and Bolivia

Remarks: This is the smallest hatchetfish in the family.

Comments: The dorsal contour of this typically deep-bodied hatchetfish is almost flat. Body colouration is light greenish yellow above a dark line that runs from the eye to the caudal peduncle; below the line it is silver. The pectoral fins are well developed and reach back to the dorsal fin which carries a dark spot. Pelvic fins are hardly noticeable. If you ask me these are a rather strange lokking fish, but fun to keep none the less. I'd say these are well worth having as a s they look nice in a well planted tank setup.

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[http://www.garybolton.co.uk]

What to Look For to Buy a Healthy Betta Fish

Many of the betta fish available to buy at stores are already sick from being kept in unhealthy conditions. You'll have a better chance to find a healthy fish from a pet store than a convenience store. Your best chances would be to purchase one directly from a breeder, however. In any case, you want to choose a healthy fish to have the best start, giving it a good chance for a long life. Did you know that Betta fish can live up to five years? A fish that starts out sick, however, may only live up to six months after purchase. It's easier to care for a healthy fish than to revive an unhealthy one.

Here are the different aspects to look for when choosing your fish:

Environment: Are the cups clean or are they full of dirty water? Is there a bad smell in the air? It could be from dead fish.

Color: Bettas are known for their vibrant coloring. Of course, there are variations that are pale or white. More likely, however, the dull color is a sign of stress or poor health.

Behavior: You want an active fish, floating upright, not spending too much time on the bottom. If a fish is motionless it could be sleeping. Don't tap on the glass as that will stress it out. Be subtle trying to get his attention.

Body: The body should be full and sleek, with no noticeable bumps. If it has white splotches it could have a fungus.

Fins: The fins should be free of wholes or tears, and spread fully instead of clamped together.

Scales: The scales should be flat and smooth. They shouldn't be loose or peeling.

Gills: Gills should be smooth, not red or stringy.

Eyes: The eyes should be dark and clear. They should not be bulging or sunken.

If something just doesn't look or feel right, pass on that fish and look at another one. It's good to trust your instincts. If there are many healthy fish to choose from, then go with personal preference.

You can use these same signs to watch the health of your betta fish after purchase. There are many resources on the web that you can find to increase the health and longevity of your fish. Put "Betta Care" in the search engine to get started. Good luck with your new fish!

This article has been submitted in affiliation with http://www.PetLovers.Com/ which is a site for Pet Forums.

Are You Fighting Brown Algae In A Salt Water Fish Tank?

The setup of your saltwater fish tank is only the beginning. You may have to make many adjustments to the water, lighting, food, and the items in your saltwater fish tank. One frequent problem many people complain about is algae.

Algae can be green or even brown colored. Diatom or brown algae in a saltwater fish tank is easy to get and will need special attention to remove. Fortunately, there are just a few causes for brown algae problems. Once you've identified and removed the source, your problem will be solved.

Brown algae, just like the green algae, need light and a few other ingredients to survive. It could be tank lights or sunlight feeding your algae. The other ingredients are nitrates and silicates that help the growth of brown algae in a saltwater fish tank. Therefore, the first step to get rid of brown algae in a saltwater fish tank is to consider the lighting.

If your tank is placed where sunlight hits it for any length of time, you'll want to move it to a different location. Also, evaluate to make sure the tank lights aren't too bright, thus giving the brown algae a good growth environment.

Remove Ingredients

The best way to remove brown algae in a saltwater fish tank is to get rid of the ingredient feeding it. Getting rid of the silicates alone will kill the brown algae. It's also a good idea to remove high levels of nitrates.

The best way to check your nitrate and silicate levels is to buy a test kit. Adjust your water accordingly, cut down on your lights and the brown algae in a saltwater fish tank should be a problem of the past.

What is the best way to get rid of silicates?

Silicates can enter your saltwater tank through many different ways. They can get in with certain sea salts, through the tap water you use, or enter on the substrate inside your tank.

Since the problem could be coming from any of the above sources, the best thing to do is to remove any sand in the tank unless it actually came from the ocean. Start using only RO/DI water no matter what kind of tank you have. Finally yet importantly, check the salt you use for high silicates.

Follow these simple steps and verything in your tank will not only look better but will be healthier. Your salt water fish will have a clean and happy home.

Cris Stanford is the publisher of www.saltwater-aquarium-secrets.com where you'll find money saving advice and expert tips on subjects like fighting brown algae in a salt water tank.

Salt Water Fish Tank Filter Systems

Choosing the between all the various salt water fish tank filtration systems can be confusing to say the least. But, before you choose your specific system, there are a few points you must know no matter which system you choose. Keep in mind filtration is a very important part of your tank, so don't rush through this step.

In natural habitats, the fish have an ample areas in which to live. In your tank, they are confined to a relatively small quantity of water. In your tank, waste products can quickly build up and spell disaster. That's where the filter comes in.

Four factors have a huge impact on the success of your tank, and your filtration system. You must have an adequate biological base, the appropriate choice of animals, not over-populate, and don't over feed. Get one of these factors wrong, and you most likely will have problems with your saltwater tank.

Biological filtration is the most important sector of salt water fish tank filter systems. The biological filters are living organisms within your tank. They consume oxygen and waste material within your tank. It's not something you can add. They will occur naturally within your saltwater fish tank.

Mechanical Filtration

The second type of filtration for your tank is mechanical filtration. This is where you choose the type of salt water filter system you will use in your new tank.

Mechanical filtration strains the solid particles from your tank water. It will not remove solids trapped by gravel, or other items within your tank. A good mechanical filter traps enough solids to keep your water clear, without becoming clogged frequently.

Smaller openings catch finer particles and are clogged faster than a larger opening. Keep this in mind as you choose your mechanical filtration system.

Types of Mechanical Filters

For years, the corner filter has been the least expensive and most used type of salt water fish tank filtration systems. These clear plastic boxes sit inside the tank. An air stone bubbles air through an airlift tube, which forces water through a bed of filter floss mechanically filtering the water.

Today there are better methods,that don't take up space, look nicer, and perform well.

Power filters are used by many. You'll find many styles of power filters. The most common hangs on the back of the tank. A siphon tube pulls water from the tank into the filter box and passes the water though a mechanical filter. An internal pump returns the filtered water into the aquarium. Power filters come in many sizes suited for small to large aquariums

Under-gravel filters work by slowly passing water through the gravel on the bottom, which sits on top of a perforated plate. The water pumped with an airlift, with bubbles air lifting the water in a vertical tube attached to the filter plate. One problem is that the gravel clogs up with waste creating a health risk for your fish.

Sponge filters are an efficient,cheap form of biological filtration. Water is forced through porous foam by air bubbling through an airlift tube. Water flowing though the sponge allows the growth of a colony of beneficial bacteria that neutralizes toxic ammonia.

Chemical Filtration

Chemical filtration removes dissolved wastes from aquarium water. The most popular chemical filtration is the carbon filter method. Your water is filtered through gas activated carbon. The best GAC for filtering water is made from coal and is macro-porous (larger pores).

Cris Stanford is the publisher of www.saltwater-aquarium-secrets.com where you'll find money saving advice and expert tips on how to set up the perfect salt water fish tank filter systems.

Salt Water Fish Tank Setup For Beginners

Saltwater fish tanks have their own unique qualities and demands. But, for the reef aquarium lover, it's well worth the effort.

You'll get many hours of enjoyment without hassle if you get your salt water fish tank setup correctly. If you miss a few steps, you're sure to have problems. They may not show up right way, but your fish will suffer in the long run. So please, be patient and follow all the steps in order.

Before You Begin

Do your research before starting your salt water fish tank setup. If you haven't yet purchased your system, you find many choices available. Don't hesitate to research and ask questions as you're making your choices. Each set requires different parts and equipment, but most specialized aquarium stores are more than happy to help you get started.

What basic equipment do you need? You'll need filters, pumps, heaters, lights, test kits, and sea salt mixtures, and substrate material (maybe something like coral). There's other optional equipment, but these are the basics.

Once you've chosen your system, you're ready to begin the setup. First you'll need to clean and level the tank. Then you can begin to arrange your background making sure to leave room for the necessary system pieces that must go into the tank.

Starting the Saltwater Fish Tank Setup and Testing

Once your tank is set, level, and the background is installed, you're ready to test your new system. Follow directions for your specific saltwater tank precisely. This may take some time, but it's worth it. Test your system before you put it into your tank. Once that's done, you can go on to the next step of your salt water fish tank setup.

If you have not already put in your saltwater solution now is a good time to do this. Once your solution is in, turn your tank on, and let it run for around 24 hours. During this test run, you can make changes to the water, if necessary. Just make sure everything is working correctly with no leaks.

Saltwater Aquascaping

Turn off any equipment that may be running. Put aside equipment that may get in the way. You have to siphon out half the water in the tank and save it. After removing some water, arrange your rocks and decorations how you want them. Once you like your design, add the water back into your tank to the proper level.

Next, turn on the system and let it run. Let your tank cycle. After the cycling is complete - and never before - you can add your fish. Make sure to do routine tests and add water as needed.

Second Tank

After you have your first salt water fish tank setup, why you should look into another tank? Well, one thing that is important when adding a lot of different saltwater fish is to have a quarantine tank to observe each fish before they are put in with others.

It's important to keep you new fish alone for a while to make sure they're not carrying any diseases. The last thing you want to do is put a new fish who's unhealthy in with your thriving fish. Once introduced to the tank, disease spread quickly. It's better to be safe than to lose all your saltwater fish.

Cris Stanford is the publisher of www.saltwater-aquarium-secrets.com where you'll find money saving advice and expert tips on creating a fantastic salt water fish tank setup.

What Causes Cloudy Water In Fish Tanks?

Are you having trouble finding your fish in the fish tank due to cloudy water? There can be several different reasons for cloudy water in a fish tank, so let's take a look at the most common ones. These are debris from new substrate, bacterial bloom, chemical imbalance, or even floating algae.

Most new rocks and decorations will cause cloudy water. If this is the case then your debris should settle and go away on it's own in a couple of days. Before adding the next decorations or rocks it best to soak them in separate water to get all the loose dirt off before addingthem to your tank.

Another problem that can come from new fish tanks is a bacterial bloom. This can cause the water to have a haze and look rather gray. This can come from overfeeding the fish or dying plants.

A sure sign of a bacteria bloom is when your water is milky and has a very bad odor. Not all bacteria are bad but some bacteria blooms can be deadly to your fish. When the nutrient levels get extremely high the bacteria go ballistic and multiply rapidly.

Be sure to remove all dead or dying plants if you have a bacteria problem. If you are changing fifteen percent of your water and using a siphon to clean debris, this type of haze will not cause the fish harm. But it is essential that you get in under control quickly.

Another thing to look at is whether or not your fish are being overfed. This can also cause the water to get cloudy. Just check the bottom of the tank for leftover food - that would be a sure sign of overfeeding.

Fixing fish tank problems like cloudy water from algae can be a pain because it will be thick and green. One of the best ways to cut down on the amount of algae in a tank is by adding algae eating fish. Keeping your lights on for long periods will encourage algae growth as well as sunlight shining on the tank so make sure to watch the amount of lighting your tank gets to help prevent algae growth.

If none of the above helps you with fixing your cloudy water problems, you should follow with a test kit. The test kit will be used to check the ammonia and nitrate levels of your fish tank water.

Once you have checked the levels, the reading for a normal level for both the nitrate and ammonia is zero. If you have something other than zero then your water quality is bad.

What causes cloudy water in fish tanks with open or semi-open style tanks? Many times these style of tanks could possibly have a stopped up filter causing debris to cloud up your water.

If you are still not sure what is causing the cloudy water in your fish tank, don't panic. As long as your water doesn't seem extremely bad and your fish are acting fine, give it a little time. Sometimes if bacteria is the cause the bacteria will kill itself.

This is definitely not advice for all cases. If you are concerned about your fish you should probably remove them until you get your problem under control. It is extremely helpful to have a quarantine tank just for occasions such as these. Regular maintenance will also help you enjoy your fish tank without concern.

Cris Stanford is the publisher of www.saltwater-aquarium-secrets.com where you'll find money saving advice, expert tips and answer to questions like What causes cloudy water in fish tanks?.

Maintaining the Right Temperature for a Salt Fish Tank

Keeping the right temperature for a salt fish tank or any tank takes some practice. All fish tanks require a water heater to keep the right temperature for the fish. Water heaters have a thermostat attached so you can keep an eye on the temperature changes. There are even different styles depending on what you prefer. Some heaters are designed to hang from the back of the tank, so they're out of the way.

Placement is Important

The temperature for a salt fish tank can change with the atmosphere of the room where it's located. Placement of your tank in the room can play a major role in maintaining proper temperature for a salt fish tank. It's important not to put your tank under heating or cooling vents and keep it out of the sunlight.

The larger the tank, the bigger the heat pump will have to be in order to heat the water adequately. Just as other electric appliances, the strength is measured in watts. Your heat pump should produce fifty watts of heat for every ten gallons of water. Going by these measurements is the safest way to keep the right temperature for a salt fish tank.

Learning how to start a saltwater fish tank and putting the equipment together is time consuming. But, you want to make sure to test all your equipment to be sure it all works properly before you get fish in your tank.

Temperature for a salt fish tank can be harder to manage in a home without central air. If your home does not have central air you have to pay attention and set your heater to the right temperature especially in warm seasons. If you don't, your fish may not survive large temperature drops from day to night.

Temperature for a Salt Fish Tank and Water Changes

It is very important to pay attention to your thermostat especially during water changes. The pH should be around 0.02 and the temperature between one and two degrees of the current water.

When changing the water you need to get the temperature of the new water as close as you can to the old if it was the right temperature. If you can't seem to get the water exactly the same temperature, it's best to have it a little warmer than too cool. Cool water could shock your fish and that isn't good for them at all.

Cris Stanford is the publisher of www.saltwater-aquarium-secrets.com where you'll find money saving advice and expert tips on maintaining the right temperature for a salt fish tank setup.

Setting Up A Tropical Fish Tank Setup

Setting up a tropical fish tank is explained below. Depending upon the fish you are going to keep and other data, modify the procedure according to your requirement.

The equipment needed to set up a tropical fish tank are heater, replacement filter media, aquarium filter, aquarium gravel, and an aquarium along with decorations either real or fake plants.

The amount of effort needed to set up a tropical fish tank is same as having a cat or a dog as pets. Unless you work hard at it, it is not an easy job to set up and maintain a tropical fish tank. Every week maintenance work is to be performed along with frequent change of water. The fish has to be fed at least once in a day. If you do not mind these hard work, then look forward to the pleasure of keeping a tropical fish at home.

Analyze the type of fish which you will put in the aquarium prior to the purchase. Certain types of tropical fish grow up to twelve inches or more in length. If you are sure of the type of fish you will be keeping it will be easier to decide the size of the tank needed. Beginners should start with a ten or twenty gallon aquarium and use it to stock hardier and smaller variety of fish.

The aquarium should not be placed near heater vents or windows so that it will not affect the temperature and light of the tank. The temperature of the tank is affected by the sunlight which enters through windows. Such an exposure to light may lead to algae problems too. The stand which carries the aquarium should be be capable of taking the load and weight of the aquarium.

While buying the aquarium and equipment, decide the type of filter to be used. The heater should be capable of the heating the tank properly. Buy one to one and half pounds of gravel for each gallon of water.

While washing the aquarium do not use detergents or soap and use only water. The tropical fish will be harmed by the left over residue of the soap. The gravel should be washed well before it was placed in the tank. The decorations and plants can be added after the cleaned gravel is placed in the tank.

Flow of water on to the aquarium can be controlled by placing a saucer or plate in the middle and by directing the flow of water to it. Add water which is corresponding to room temperature. Remove all the chemicals in the water including chloramine and chlorine by using suitable removing agent. Do not fill the tank to the brim since when the arm is placed in the aquarium the water will overflow and mess up the surroundings.

Allow nearly 15 minutes so that the heater's thermostat gets adjusted to the temperature of the water and plug all other accessories and turn on the power supply. Wait for a while before putting the fish in to aquarium since the water has to be recycled to a suitable condition. Add only a couple of fish at a time to enable the filters complete the biological process according to the number of fishes thriving in the tank.

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Aquariums - The Basic Guide For Setting Up Aquariums

There are hundreds of books written about fish keeping which are readily available, however there is not enough time to read a book before we start, so let's get going and we will keep fish successfully by staying with the basics, then you can become an expert later on, from experience, as well as from books.

Why do we want an aquarium, because it is a great indoor hobby that teaches so many things, about nature, water, fish behaviour, plants and decoration, plus when you create a nice display it looks fantastic as well.

There is a little work involved in setting up and keeping a nice display, but what good is a hobby with nothing to do and without doubt, aquariums are a very enjoyable and satisfying hobby.

Remember too, that you are creating an underwater world, your aquarium is a micro system of living creatures that will react to each other and so there is no exact science or instructions, but a gradual building of the understanding of your creation.

There are three different types of environment that you can create depending on the types of fish that you want to keep, here mentioned with a little detail to help you choose, but in greater depth later, so you only have to read about the type of environment you have selected.

Coldwater Aquariums Contain ornamental goldfish, a small number of other species and a range of plants that can thrive indoors, but in water that is not heated. Good for quick bright displays, but as much work as tropical fish to keep looking nice, often because the more efficient filters and equipment are not considered as important as with the other environments.

Tropical Aquariums have the advantage of a wide range of fish from the warmer parts of the world, the varieties available are amazing, but a little care in selection is essential to ensure they will get on well with each other. A community aquarium offers a variety of fish with an excellent selection of water plants to really make an outstanding display. As your aquarium develops the Tropical aquarium also offers the advantage of being able to breed and raise your own fish, if you want to. The tropical aquarium has a thermostatically controlled heater to maintain the warmer temperature.

Marine Aquariums are defined by the remarkable shapes and stunning colors of the coral reef fish, from the relatively low cost damsel fish and clowns to the higher priced rarities, no other types of fish can possibly compete with the amazing display that can be created. Essentially the addition of a synthetic sea salt mix and different décor is the only difference to the freshwater tropical aquarium. Although there is no question that it is the more expensive of the different environments to set up and keep.

Your Aquarium

Now that we have an idea of what type of display we want to create we need to select a suitable aquarium. The first understanding of any environment is that changes occur more quickly in small areas. Pollution, temperature changes, bacteria and parasites will all have a faster effect in a smaller aquarium than in a larger area. Choose the largest reasonable size aquarium that will fit into the part of your home you want to keep your display, aquariums are more expensive the larger you choose, however the results are always worth the initial additional cost.

The Aquarium Location

Whilst mentioning the area in your home where you are going to site your aquarium, modern lighting systems are much more controllable than daylight so to keep your plants looking healthy and reduce the growth of algae try and keep the aquarium away from natural light and certainly direct sunlight. Use the aquarium to brighten a dark area rather than compete with a bright window.

Aquarium Construction Aquariums available today are either made from acrylic, normally the smaller ones, or are all glass with silicone rubber adhesives. Glass is harder to scratch and will last for years so it is more popular, especially now that bow fronted, hexagonal and a variety of other shapes are all commonly available. Leaks are extremely rare as the silicone sealer that joins the glass is well tried and tested. It is important that the aquarium is placed on a rigid, flat support as the weight of the water could crack the base glass if any movement or distortion occurs, so ensure that the stand or cabinet used is designed for the purpose.There are sometimes surprises when obtaining quotes for special size aquariums to be made. The longer, wider or deeper the aquarium, the greater the weight, or water pressure. Therefore the glass has to be thicker. The thickness can double between one meter long and one and a half meters long, therefore the price is likely to do the same.

Aquarium Delivery

We carefully arrange every delivery individually to suit our customer, on the most suitable working day, our carriers are careful and our packaging is thorough and well tested. Larger aquariums travel on a pallet for safety, so when the aquarium arrives preparations to unpack it and place it in the home must be made by the customer.

Next step, choose your aquarium.

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Aquariums - Is the Biorb Or Biube Aquarium Best For You?

Why biOrb?

Reef One originally developed the biOrb as a fish friendly goldfish bowl to give fish keepers a compromise between an outdated bowl and a large rectangular aquarium. They updated the design by using the appeal of the bowl combined with the technological advances used in the larger aquariums. It means that a biORb can offer more volume, 5 stages of filtration, excellent, oxygen/carbon dioxide diffusion, lower maintenance and is also much healthier environment for fish than the old style goldfish bowls.

The globe is manufactured from Plexiglass acrylic and because of its large water capacity, biOrb provides fish with approximately 10 times more space than a traditional bowl. The filter design utilities a unique systemized five-stage method combining biological, mechanical and chemical filtration. This significantly reduces the maintenance whilst ensuring that the water remains healthy and crystal clear for months between the simple filter cartridge changes.

biOrb's are available in a 30 or 60 litre capacity aquarium.

Tropical

It is easy to go tropical with the biOrb - by adding a heater stand, a heater can be safely fitted to the biOrb. biOrb's heater pack contains a 50 watt heater, heater stand, thermometer and Kikari Micro Pellets. Aquarium heaters must be no more than 20cm in length and must not touch the sides of the biOrb. Small tropical fish are generally easier to care for than Fantails as they are hardier and create less waste. 12-18 small tropical fish can be kept in the biOrb and these small fish can be added 2-3 at a time.

The biUbe

The biUbe is the latest unique addition to the Reef One aquarium range. Available in silver or black and designed to fit in a smaller space than the biOrb range, it is ideal as a focal point in a small flat, study, kitchen or bedroom. The lid and base bands can easily be changed to a different colour.

Made from strong, crystal clear acrylic and featuring the identical filtration system as the popular biOrb means it is simple and quick to maintain. The biUbe contains 35 litres (9 US Gallons) of water and is ideal for tropical or coldwater fish. Supplied complete with a 5 stage internal filter, halogen light, ceramic media, air pump, plug top 12 volt transformer, water treatment, fish food & a full set of instructions.

Fish

Small fantails e.g. Ryukin, introduce when they are 1.5 inches. Small tropical fish e.g. danios, barbs and small tetras for your tropical aquarium. Male guppies and platies Delicate varieties such as Pearl Scales, Blackmoors and Neon tetras should not be introduced first No Oranda or common goldfish No catfish, loach or other bottom feeders. Plants and Décor

Elodea densa (goldfish weed) Cabomba aquatia Vallisneria Java fern Crypotocomes Any artificial plants Large pebbles (bigger than ceramic media). Be careful not to cover the filter lid. No aquarium gravel, as it blocks filtration and causes the cartridge to get stuck. Bogwood is OK for tropical fish (not goldfish) but will tint the water. Any aquarium ornament or clean aquatic rocks

Accessories

There are an extensive range of accessories available for both the biOrb and the biUbe, these include: swap tops to colour coordinate with your room, LED lights, volcanoes, airstones, ceramic media, stands, ac transformers, safe 12v air pump, light units, bulbs, bubble tube guard, service kits, cleaner pump, cleaning pads and one way valves.

Key points to success

Always read and follow instructions Introduce the right type of fish gradually Do not overfeed Change the filter cartridge and 1/3rd water every 6-8 weeks. How to maintain your biORb/biUbe

Change the filter cartridge and 1/3rd of the water every 6-8weeks using a service kit. Use a cleaner pump to remove any extra dirt from the ceramic media. Another reason to get a biORb/biUbe

According to internationally known TV Feng Shui Doctor Paul Darby, clean, flowing, well-lit water with fish is the ultimate way of transforming bad energy - so the biOrb with its five stage filtration system, bubbling water and low-voltage light, makes perfect Feng Shui sense!

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Aquarium Equipment, Size and Quantity Recommendations

Choose the nearest length to the rectangular aquarium you are going to set up, and this guide will help you choose the size and quantity of all you need. Special shapes can be worked out from the guides after the rectangular aquariums.

Aquarium Length 45cm (18in)

Water Volume approx 49 liters (11galls)
Gravel/Coral Sand Minimum = 5kgs
Thermostatic Heater = 50watt (Tronic)
Filter Internal 200 liters per hour = (Fluval One)
Fluorescent Tube and Starter unit Length/Power 15in/14watt.
Additional items; Thermometer, New water conditioner. Marine items; Sea Salt mix, Hydrometer, Nitrite test kit

Aquarium Length 60cm (24in)

Water Volume approx 66 liters (15galls)
Gravel/Coral Sand Minimum = 10kgs
Thermostatic Heater = 100watt (Tronic)
Filter 400 liters per hour = (Internal Fluval 2 or External 105)
Fluorescent Tube and Starter unit Length/Power 18in/15watt
Additional items; Thermometer, New water conditioner. Marine items; Sea Salt mix, Hydrometer, Nitrite test kit

Aquarium Length 76cm (30in)

Water Volume approx 85 liters (19galls)
Gravel/Coral Sand Minimum = 15kgs
Thermostatic Heater = 150watt (Tronic)
Filter 400 liters per hour = (Internal Fluval 2 or External 105)
Fluorescent Tube and Starter unit Length/Power 24in/20watt Additional items;
Thermometer, New water conditioner. Marine items; Sea Salt mix, Hydrometer, Nitrite test kit

Aquarium Length 90cm (36in)

Water Volume approx 105 liters (23galls)
Gravel/Coral Sand Minimum = 20kgs Thermostatic Heater = 200watt (Tronic)
Filter 700 liters per hour = (Internal Fluval 3 or External 205)
Fluorescent Tube and Starter unit Length/Power 30in/25watt
Additional items; Thermometer, New water conditioner. Marine items; Sea Salt mix, Hydrometer, Nitrite test kit

Aquarium Length 105cm (42in)

Water Volume approx 120 liters (27galls)
Gravel/Coral Sand Minimum = 25kgs
Thermostatic Heater = 250watt (Tronic)
Filter 700 liters per hour = (Internal Fluval 3 or External 305)
Fluorescent Tube and Starter unit Length/Power 36in/30watt
Additional items; Thermometer, New water conditioner. Marine items; Sea Salt mix, Hydrometer, Nitrite test kit

Aquarium Length 120cm (48in)

Water Volume approx 144 liters (32galls)
Gravel/Coral Sand Minimum = 30kgs
Thermostatic Heater = 300watt (Tronic)
Filter 1000 liters per hour = (Internal Fluval 4 or External 405)
Fluorescent Tube and Starter unit Length/Power 42in/40watt
Additional items; Thermometer, New water conditioner. Marine items; Sea Salt mix, Hydrometer, Nitrite test kit

Aquarium Length 150cm (60in)

Water Volume approx 172 liters (39galls)
Gravel/Coral Sand Minimum = 35kgs
Thermostatic Heater = 2x200watt (Tronic)
Filter 1400 liters per hour = (Internal 2 x Fluval 3 or External 405)
Fluorescent Tube and Starter unit Length/Power 48in/40watt
Additional items; Thermometer, New water conditioner. Marine items; Sea Salt mix, Hydrometer, Nitrite test kit

Aquarium Length 180cm (72in)

Water Volume approx 212 liters (48galls)
Gravel/Coral Sand Minimum = 40kgs
Thermostatic Heater = 2x300watt (Tronic)
Filter 2000 liters per hour = (Internal 2 x Fluval 4 or External FX5)
Fluorescent Tube and Starter unit Length/Power 60in/58watt
Additional items; Thermometer, New water conditioner. Marine items; Sea Salt mix, Hydrometer, Nitrite test kit

For other shapes

Gravel/Coral Sand = 5kg per square foot
Heater = 50watts for every 25 liters (6 galls)
Filtration = Aquarium water turnover 4 - 8 times per hour.

Tropical Fish

So many elements effect the raising of tropical fish. Choosing the right ones and making the right decisions is crucial for success. Setting up an aquarium, selecting the fish, plants and algae, feeding the fish and breeding the fish are the major aspects of this hobby.

Aquarium

The aquarium elements depend on the fish one intends to have. Many parts form an aquarium and they all need to be considered seriously before they are selected:
Glass - Gravel - Hood - Heater - Thermometer - Bulbs - Filters - Cleaning Equipment - Nets - Water Test Kit - Small Container

Selecting the Fish

You can opt to have only one type of tropical fish. Problems are limited if you choose to go that way. But with tropical fish, many believe, variety is an essential element in raising fish in an aquarium.

One needs to be very careful when deciding which fish to raise in one's own aquarium. It is obvious that not all fish get along with each other well, and selecting the right fish is a crucial decision one needs to make. Research on various tropical fish in respect of habits and behaviour is a must before hurrying to the store.

Buying the fish

Once at the store, there are many things to look for. Here is a list of guidelines:

1. Don't buy fish which reside in dirty tanks

2. Watch out for white spots and eaten fins

3. Fish eyes should be clear

4. Movement should be linear with their fins in an upright position

5. No dead fish in the tank

Plants and Algae

By many ignored, but a very important aspect for tropical fish is to have the right plants and algae in the fish habitat. The ideal is to get rooted plants with roots already in place. This way, fish are provided with plants straight away and their survival rate is much higher. Ideally, tall plants are placed at the rear corners of the aquarium and the smaller and shorter ones at the front.

Several types of plants and algae exist, and choosing will always depend on your likings and on the character of the fish one intends to have.

Feeding the fish

Feeding tropical fish is an art in itself. Many fish don't die because of lack of food, but as a result of food abundance. Giving the right amount of food is important as selecting the food. The market for tropical fish food is quite large and there are foods for several types of fish.

Breeding

There is only one way fish can breed in your aquarium, that is, giving them the right environment to do so. There isn't better proof that the aquarium is in good shape than having fish breed in it. You can see when one has done a good job by the results the fish themselves will give to the owner.

There are so many tropical fish that one can never feel completely fulfilled as there is always some species one would like to have as part of his/her collection. The other items that form part pf having tropical fish, like the aquarium itself, the plants involved, and the various accessories, make this hobby a vast and interesting one without ever getting bored.

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Fish Aquarium

A fish lovers work is never done, some of us that love and appreciate fish know this for a fact, the never ending search for new kinds of fish to place in our aquariums alone is enough to make some people tired already. The maintenance and energy that one needs to put into having an impressive aquarium in his house is something that easily equals a full time job. Nevertheless it is a passion that has touched many, and many more discover that there is something very special and unique to growing fish and having a fish aquarium of any size in your home.

Fish are very common pets when you think of it, in almost any pet shop you will find an abundance of fish, someone can foolishly think that this means that most people are familiar with the knowledge of growing them, it is not necessarily true. While most of the fish growers enthusiasm starts at a young age, and in fact most of the lovers of fish start as young boys and girls staring at the pet shop window wishing to get some fish, once you have a couple of fish you start realizing that you will have to do much more than just fill a tank of water and feed the fish every couple of days.

With this realization you would also understand that the sum of money that you have intended for this purpose is probably going to be a little bigger than what you initially planned, and form here the story starts. The passion is to have a unique aquarium that holds many different types of fish, to add as many features to the aquarium and make it as harmonious as possible, even as natural as possible to reflect a true way of living in a sense.

Since the fish market has much to offer a aquarium fish grower can almost never run out of more options to make his aquarium richer and more colorful, but also healthier and stronger. The race in the technology in providing better aquarium equipment that we maintain the aquarium needs better is never ending, the products are not very expensive at first but as you start to grow you aquarium to larger sizes you will need to invest wisely in the maintenance produces you use.

The last part of the article is devoted to the design of the aquarium, we have all seen those movies in which the bad guy has a huge aquarium with sharks swimming round in it, this is somewhat the average dream for the average fish grower, and although it is not probable that many growers will get this, some will, but everyone tries and makes their fish aquarium look better. The design of the aquarium has a lot to do with the person that has it, it is not only the basic design of the aquarium, but of what is in it, what it uses as an aquarium stand and the placing of the whole thing. A lot of effort goes into this part and I hope that when you spot a nice fish aquarium you let the owner know he is doing something right.

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Crayfish - Paint Your Aquarium Blue With them

Crayfish originate from Australia and they are freshwater invertebrates. Most people call them 'blue lobster' and 'yabby'

There are many species within the Crayfish community. These beautiful creatures are hardy and can live to up to five years. Crayfish is much sought after as aquarium pets due to their fancy varieties and brilliant color.

How do you select healthy crayfish?

You have to avoid shops where they kept all the crayfish in overcrowded tanks with very little water. These crayfish tends to become stress and eventually die in such condition. Look for crayfish that is lively and full of energy. You have to also make sure that they have a complete set of limbs. You can test it by lowering your hands onto its back. When a healthy crayfish sense your hand, their natural reaction is to move back and raise both their pincers in a defensive stance. If the crayfish simply lie still and does not respond to your touch, you can be sure that it is not healthy.

Their pincers are used to catch prey and protect themselves. Sometimes you may notice that some of the crayfish have pincers that are smaller than most of the other crayfish in the tank, or they may have pincers that are not of equal size. This can be that the smaller pincer is a new appendage that grew while replacing the old one.

It is a little tricky to catch crayfish. You have to approach it from the back and hold the end of its carapace with both your thumb and index finger

Crayfish is unlike some of the fishes. They are territorial in nature, and so you must never over-stock your tank. So how big should a tank be? Well, 2ft by 1ft will be big enough to keep the crayfish happy.

Crayfish likes hiding space. You can place objects in the tanks. Objects such as PVC pipes or rocks will be able to provide them lot of good hiding places.

For aeration, a bubble filter will do just fine. And take note that crayfish do not need strong lightning and they do not do well in acidic water.

When it comes to feeding, it is the easiest! Crayfish eat anything they can find. It can be dirt, unwanted scraps, and feeder fish, sinking pellet or just some shrimps. Anything, everything goes for these creatures. Crayfish hunt at night, so turn off the aquarium light before you feed them.

Crayfish tend to grow by getting rid of its old shell. They will push itself out of the old shell through the space just behind the carapace which will split open. When they shed their shells, they will be covered only with soft tissue. These soft tissues will harden into new shells after a couple of days.. And usually, the crayfish will eat up its old shell.

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Caring for Betta Fish

Caring for a Betta Splendens, or the Siamese fighting fish is relatively easy. You don't need a large well equipped aquarium that costs hundreds of dollars. A small bowl or vase will work, but if you can get a small 1-2 gallon aquarium with a filter that will work best. If you do use a bowl or vase make sure it is big enough for your new Betta to swim around without bumping into the side. While the Betta can breathe air from the surface it is important that the opening of your Bettas bowl is wide enough to allow good oxygenation of the water.

It is important that you don't put two Bettas in the same bowl or tank because they are after all called Siamese fighting fish. If two males are put into the same small bowl they will usually fight until one of them is killed. Females will get along better with each other than the males do but they do need room to escape a more aggressive female.

Another point to remember when it comes to caring for your Betta fish is to not over-feed them. They can be fed once or twice a day but only a few pellets of Betta food at a time. They will not eat much at one time and if you feed them to much the remaining food will fall to the bottom and muck up their bowl.

You will have to change your Bettas water once every two or three days. Since they can easily live in a small bowl without any filtration the best way to keep their water clean is by frequent water changes. You need to do this to prevent the build up of ammonia which is toxic. You need to replace 70%-80% of the water every time you do a water change. You will also need to use a water conditioner that removes the chlorine and heavy metals normally found in water supplies. Another thing you can do is let the water sit out overnight in a bucket which allows the chlorine to escape.

The ease of caring for a Betta fish makes it appealing for people who do not have the time or space to care for more high maintenance pets like dogs, cats or even an aquarium full of fish. They can be placed just about anywhere, on a shelf or counter top, in an apartment or home.

If you properly care for your Betta fish they will easily live for 3 to 5 years and provide you with a healthy happy companion that will become more than just a pet.

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Stop Scrubbing Your Fish Tank - Let The Chinese Algae Eater Do It For You

He might not be the best looking fish, but the the Chinese Algae Eater is certainly the hardest working. If you are battling algae in your aquarium, this little fish can help clean it up in no time at all!

The Chinese Algae Eater (Gyrinocheilus aymonieri) is not striking in appearance, he is a light brown with a dark stripe down the back. His mouth is located underneath which is typical of a loach and this placement helps him to grip onto rocks and things so he can remain in place in the current. In your tank you will often see his underbelly as he hangs on to the glass eating the algae and acting as a fast and efficient tank cleaner. While it may seem like one fish cannot do the job, believe me you will be surprised as he can literally clean up your tank overnight, and keep it clean.

In the fish store, you will find mostly young Chinese Algae eaters that are about ½ inch to 1 inch in size. Even for this small size you will find that they eat an amazing amount of algae. Young fish will pretty much just go about their business, but older ones can be territorial so it is not advisable to have more than one Chinese algae eater in your tank.

This tropical fish thrives in most aquariums and his optimum temperature is between 77 and 82 degrees. They can probably tolerate lower temps, but if your tank gets below 69 degrees, the Chinese Algae Eater will stop eating so be sure to keep the tank warm so that your little living vacuum will keep doing his job.

Eating a herbivorous diet, your algae eater will need, of course, lots of algae in the tank so you will need to be sure that the tank gets light in order for the algae to grow. If it seems like he is not getting enough food, or you want to give him something different you can hang a bit of lettuce or spinach on the side of the tank.

You may find that your Chinese Algae Eater hangs around mostly at the bottom of the tank, and that is where he is most comfortable. Of course, he will scour the tank regularly for algae so you will also see him on your rocks, decorations and sides. Although rather small at first, this fish can actually grow to 11 inches so you might want to be sure you have enough room to house him as an adult!

The Chinese Algae Eater can be purchased at your local aquarium store and is readily available. If the salesperson doesn't know what a Chinese Algae Eater is, then try asking for an Indian Algae Eater or a Sucking Loach which are other names for this interesting fish.

So if you want a fish that is more practical than pretty and that will do your cleaning for you without asking for a weekly wage, the Chinese Algae Eater is a sure bet!

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7 Tips For Choosing Aquarium Fish

Buying the right aquarium fish for your tank is key to the success of your aquarium. When selecting fish, you may not simply be able to pick out the fish that catch your eye in the pet store as not all fish can live in the same environment. Additionally not all fish get along with each other so you will have to be careful to choose the types of fish that are compatible.

If all this seems like hard work, don't worry, you will soon become familiar with the types of tropical fish that work well in your tank and even have some favorites that you like to keep. When choosing fish for your aquarium, here's some tips to keep in mind:

1. Fish appearance. Observe the particular fish you are interested in carefully to make sure he is active and swimming around properly. Make sure his fins are not chewed and he doesn't have any growths or white fuzzy patches.

2. Tank condition. Dealers tanks can have parasites and disease that might not be apparent in your fish right away so you need to observe the other fish in the tank and take a good look at the tank conditions. Is the tank clean? If not that is an indication that the dealer probably doesn't care for the tanks well. Make sure the other fish in the tank are alert and swimming around actively. Avoid buying a fish from a tank that has dead fish floating in it. Even if your fish appears to be healthy, he could already be infected with something that might not show up until days after you get him home. By then it might be too late and you could risk infecting your other fish.

3. Water Conditions. The condition of your water is important as well as the number of fish you already have in the tank. If your water condition is poor then adding more fish will just make things worse and endanger the health of all the fish in the tank. Also, you should be careful not to overload your tank with too many fish as this will cause stress on all the fish as well as cause your water quality to degrade. The general rule of thumb for freshwater tropical fish tanks is 1 inch of fish per gallon of water. If you add too many, you will have to spend more time changing the water and will need really good filtration in order to keep your tank healthy.

4. Water Temperature. Not all tropical fish like the same temperature water. While most will do well with temps in the mid 70's some do better in cooler waters while others like it on the warm side.

5. Fish size. Before you buy a new fish you might want to find out how big he can be expected to eventually grow. Since your tank can support about 1 inch of fish per gallon, you wouldn't want to put a fish that might grow to 5 inches in your 5 gallon tank or he might be the only one you can have!

6. The type of fish. Is your new fish aggressive or does he play well with others? Is he OK being the only one of his kind in the tank or will he do better in a school. Make sure you only put fish that will get along in the tank or the more aggressive fish will pick on the others. Also, some fish are territorial and you should only keep one per tank.

7. The food. Find out what type of food your new fish likes to eat. Most eat flakes, but some like freeze dried worms or other types of food. When you bring home your new fish be sure to also take home some of his favorite dinner.

Lee Dobbins writes for http://www.fish-tank-guide.com where you can learn more about aquarium setup and maintenance as well as choosing fish that are compatible.

Fly Fishing Lines - Leaders and Tippets

The leader consists of a monofilament line which has a heavier butt end to attach to the line and a thinner, tapered end, referred to as the tip or tippet, which attaches to the fly. This leader is meant to serve as an invisible link between the fly and the line and is less likely to deter the fish than the line attached to the fly by itself. It also accentuates the soft landing of the fly on the water.

A good leader must be thicker where it joins the line and with a degree of stiffness. A limp or soft leader will not lay out straight and hence impedes a nice presentation of the fly. The diameter of the thin end, or tippet, is varied and is chosen according to the conditions.

The strength of the outfit is completely reliant on the breaking strain of the tippet, being the thinnest part of your rig. The size is usually indicated by a number and the letter X. Tippet size also influences the delivery of the fly and a good balance is required between the weight of the fly and the diameter and weight of the tippet.

Two types of leader are available, being the knotted and the knotless. The knotless is a single piece of monofilament tapered during manufacture, the knotted type is constructed using various pieces of monofilament knotted together, the latter being the most popular due to its delivery capabilities. The leaders are usually manufactured in 2.3m and 2.7m lengths.

Although the previously mentioned number and X method of identifying leaders is used, the more common method of ordering leaders is to quote the length and breaking strain. Length is important as a leader which is too short will not present properly and will make the fish suspicious. The butt of the leader should be easy to attach to the fly line and usually consists of a loop. At the end of the day's fishing the leader will more than likely be much shorter than at the start. The making of leaders from monofilament is a skill and there are as many different styles as there are fishermen, being made for the conditions encountered and to suit the other equipment of each angler.

The abovementioned are those that are commercially available. To construct your own is a very valuable learning experience, to construct it and then go out and use it and see if it works as it should. There are a few guidelines which should be followed: Always use the same brand of leader material. Always follow a published design if you do not have a pattern of your own. Make various types of leader for various conditions. One type is not suitable for all conditions. Be certain that all knots are firm and secure, test each one by tugging. Always ensure that any knot or line twist is untangled immediately.

As the butt section is about two thirds the thickness of the line it is attached to, a different leader is required for each line size. It is therefore necessary that the intermediate sections of the leader should vary in size. If the tapering of the leader is too great, there is every likelihood of the leader parting under the strain of a hooked fish.

Michael Russell

Your Independent guide to Fishing [http://fishing.tips-and-gear.com/]

How to Buy Healthy Fish

Well, of course there is no guarantee that the fish you see, you are interested in (and you are going to buy) is totally healthy. A Fish can appear as healthy as it could be but in fact it has invisible inner problems. There are many ways, many things you should seek out to determine if a fish is healthy.

And here's a list of some:

Firstly, look for physical characteristics of good health. A healthy fish should have bright body color, not pale or dull. However darker or patchy coloration may be an indicator of stress and not of bad health. Before you buy a fish, find out how it should look under normal conditions. No open sores, boils, ulcers, peeling scales or blemishes. No visible parasites, such as tiny white crystals that look like salt or tiny black nodules that look like "blackheads". There are also viruses, like the Lymphocystis (cauliflower-like growths on the edge of fins). Be sure to examine the fish before buying it.

Eyes should be clear, not cloudy or popping out of the sockets. Fins are erect, especially the top fin (dorsal). Buckled fins can mean trouble. No ragged, torn or ripped fins. All of them should be intact.

Scales are flat and smooth, stomach is well rounded, girth of the entire body is of normal size, not bloated or sunken. Visible fish waste should be dark in color, not pale.

You should also examine their behavior! Healthy fish should breathe normally, not guzzling for air or hanging around the top of the tank where its mouth kissing the top of the water. Compare the gill movement of a fish with other fish in the tank. Extremely rapid gill movement may be a sign of stress.

The fish should interact well with another fish, as they pass each other, moving out, etc. Healthy fish should swim in a horizontal motion (not with its head up or down with a few exceptions) throughout the aquarium---not just creeping around the corners or hiding all the time. Don't pick a fish that allows itself to be bullied or likes to bully others! Spend some time watching the fish you're interested in buying maybe a good advice. Sometimes you'll see things you didn't notice right away. Watch how it behaves for a while.

Only buy fish that eat well! If possible watch them being fed, as this is very important. You won't have a wonderfully beautiful fish that only lasts a day, right?

It would be wise too to check fish prices. Unusually cheap price should be questioned, as there are some dangerous yet awfully cheap methods to caught fish today, like using cyanide and drugs. Cheap prices don't have to mean poor quality.

And make sure that the fish be caught with two nets. That's the best, since using one net will usually only result in a crazy chase around the tank, making the fish extremely stressed.

William Berg has over 20 years of aquarium experience and has written this article for http://www.aquaticcommunity.com where you can find information about all kinds of aquarium related issues. Ask your aquarium questions on the aquarium forum.

Breeeding Oscar Fish

The Oscars, or Astronotus ocellatus, from Cichlidae family, are fairly easy fish to breed. All you need is pretty much leaving them alone and letting them do their thing if you lucky enough to get a pair. If not, breeding might be very hard. They are a very long-lived fish, probably one of the reasons they are so popular today. Originally from Amazon.

Oscar Fish obviously requires a large tank due to their large size. They prefer clean and clear water with a deep sand bottom, and a few large rocks. If you keep plants with you Oscars they will be dug up however there are some people that believe that Oscars like to have plants that they can dig up in the aquarium and this might be true since many large cichlid like to have toys when kept in aquariums not to get bored. And since Oscars are large and very smart cichlids, you can actually teach them tricks, they might want something to do like digging up plant.

Be careful, they are enthusiastic eaters and they love to eat smaller fish. Thus, only keep them with other fish that are of the same size. Temperature is important, and should be kept stable somewhere in 79-86°F range. Feeding Oscars is not a problem since they will take every food you give, including flake frozen fish, prawns, pellets, earth worms, crickets, kitchen scrapes...and of course live food.

The most trying task to do is finding a mating pair. If your Oscar is adult in size, it becomes a really trial-and-error process. However once they form pairs they will stay together for the rest of their life. Probably the most common and effective method of finding pair of Oscars is to buy 6 or 8 young specimens (about 1 inch in length), and allowing them to grow up together. A mating pair can be identified from their mating play, which is a seemingly aggressive behavior towards each other; lip-locking, tail-slapping.... If one of the fish is overly aggressive, and it is a one-sided aggression and you should separate them or risk losing one of them.

During their spawning process, they will use their mouths to clean a flat rock, and the female will lay her eggs there. Not all the eggs are laid at once; the female will take breathers, at which time the male moves in and fertilizes the eggs. A female usually lays 1,000-2,000 eggs. The eggs are opaque at first, turning transparent in 24 hours. After the eggs are laid, both parents watch over the eggs, wafting the eggs with their fin and guarding them against predators. Occasionally they take the eggs in their mouth, which keeps them clean and turns up bad eggs, which are then destroyed.

If a constant tank temperature is maintained, the eggs should hatch in about 36 hours. At first, the fry cannot swim, but they squirm "en masse" on the rock, living off the egg sac, for about 4 days. The parents constantly attend to their young at this time. Feeding these fry is easier than other breeds, because of the baby Oscar's relatively large size. A good and simple plan is to crush regular processed flake food in your fingers, and just drop it in. Turn off filtration during fry feeding time to make it easier for them to find their bits of food.

How the parents act towards their fry depends entirely on each fish personality. Some have numerous spawn and never bother their fry; others easily eat their young. To be on the safe side, you can separate the fry from their parents. However I do not recommend this until the parents have had a few unsuccessful spawnings. The fry will reach 1.5 to 2 inches after 12 weeks at which time they can be sold.

William Berg is an experienced aquarist and writes for http://www.aquaticcommunity.com and have articles featured on alot of other aquarium sites such as http://www.clownloach.info

Buying Healthy Cichlids

If your past attempts at beginning a cichlid-oriented aquarium have been unsuccessful, you might doubt your abilities as an aquarist. Setting up a perfect tank and watching it fail can be very frustrating and repeated failures have led many to give up on the hobby completely. This is unfortunate, because in many cases disappointing results have little to do with the hobbyist and everything to do with the health of the fish at the time of purchase. Buying healthy cichlids is one of the best ways to increase one's chances of success. Let's look at three things you can do to improve your odds of stocking an aquarium with hearty, healthy cichlids.

First, know your source. Many people reflexively drive to their nearest large pet store and select a few fish for the tank without doing their homework first. You can increase the likelihood of finding healthy cichlids by investigating potential sources of stock first. Visit the store repeatedly over the course of many weeks and take notice of how often (and how well) the store employees clean the tanks. Observe tank temperatures and make sure the store is treating the cichlids correctly. Investigate how many clearly sick or dead fish you spot in the tanks over time. In some cases, a nearby "big box" store may meet your needs. In many situations, however, aquarists have learned that it is worth a longer drive, or spending a bit more, to purchase cichlids from a professional operation.

Second, know your cichlids. Research before you buy. You should understand how the cichlid varieties in which you are interested behave and appear when healthy. Too often, buyers simply assume that the behavior or appearance exhibited in the store is "natural" and overlook potential signs of illness. If the fish seems to have problems breathing, appears to be limited to the upper portion of the tank or is swimming with a lilt or odd angle, illness is a distinct possibility. Before you purchase a cichlid, make sure you know what a perfectly healthy version of the fish looks like and don't settle for less.

Third, ask questions. You will want to ask questions in order to increase your own knowledge base, but also as a means of testing the knowledge of the seller (which is a strong indicator of how well they are probably caring for the cichlids). Ask about feeding tendencies, growth possibilities and any other issue in which you may be interested. Also, ask questions to which you already know the answers in order to "test" the seller. It makes sense to place more trust in a cichlid seller who has a strong understanding of the fish than in someone who is merely interested in "punching the clock" and grabbing an hourly wage from the Mega Pet Super Store.

If you have had a bad experience with setting up a cichlid-based aquarium, don't give up. First, make sure you understand what you need to do to be a success. Then, follow the tips outlined here to help insure that you purchase very healthy cichlids. A great aquarium featuring cichlids is possible and starting with healthy fish is an essential part of every success story.

Justin has been keeping African and Neotropical cichlids for many years; at one time having over 15 aquariums going at once. Justin contributes regularly to AllCichlids.com, a resource for hobbyists to share their experiences, and discuss Neotropical and African cichlids!

Plants For Your Fish Tank

Plants can help enhance the look of your fish tank but did you know that they also provide your fish with a great place to spawn and hide? Not only are fish tank plants decorative, they actually help to keep your aquarium water healthy for the fish by reducing the carbon dioxide level.

The key to growing plants in your fish tank is the lighting. Most plants require high levels of light and if you have tried to put plants in your tank only to have them wither and die after a few weeks, this is most likely the reason. It's a simple matter of getting a brighter bulb for the tank and you can have lush green plants that give your aquarium a natural look.

Planting natural aquarium plants is quite easy. Most plants you buy will have a root system which needs to be planted into the substrate. To do this, grasp the root end of the plant between your thumb and first finger while making a little hole in the substrate with your free fingers. Gently push the roots down into the hole and hold in place while swooshing back some of the substrate to cover the root ball. Rootless plants can be planted much the same way, instead of pushing the roots into the gravel push the bottom of the stems in.

There's many different kinds of fish tank plants available at your local pet store or even for sale here on the internet. Here's a list of some of the most popular aquarium plants.

Amazon Sword

The Amazon Sword (Echinodorus amazonicus (bleheri)) has long narrow flowing leaves that sway in the current. This plant can grow up to 50 cm tall. It requires good lighting and fertilization so is a bit harder to keep than most plants. If given the right environment, however it can be a fast grower, sending out shoots to reproduce. It prefers aquarium temps of around 30 degrees c. with a PH of 5.5 - 9.

Anubias Anugustifolia

Although the name is a mouthful, this plant is really quite pretty with long narrow leaves. This is a great plant to keep in your aquarium if you have a lot of herbivorous fish as they will not eat it. It does not need a lot of light so is rather easy to grow in most any aquarium. This plant is a slow grower but will reach up to 15 cm. It likes temperatures of betweeen 20 and 30 c and a PH of 5.5 - 8.

Moneywort

Moneywort (Bacopa monnieri) is another plant that is easy to grow in most fish tanks. It has a long stem with small leaves in pairs all along the length. This plant is a pretty good investment as you can propagate it by taking cuttings and then planting those right in the aquarium. It does like a lot of light and a PH of 6-9 in a tank that is between 15 and 30 degrees c. Given the right conditions, this plant to grow up to 30 centimeters.

Wisteria

Wisteria (Hygrophila difformis) doesn't look anything like the vine that grows in your yard, but it is a wonderful aquarium plant with large oaky leaves. This plant also helps to prevent the growth of algae in the tank by absorbing nutrients from the water. It does need a lot of light but is a fast grower and can grow up to 50 cm. Plant Wisteria in a tank that has a PH between 5 and 9 with temps between 22 and 30 c.

Java Moss

This fish tank plant is different from the rest as it has a more mossy appearance and actually almost resembles coral in the way that it grows. It attaches itself to rocks or wood in the tank and it's mossy tendrils extend upward to a height of 5cm. Requiring minimal light, this is one of the easiest plants to grow. It will tolerate most water conditions but prefers temps of 15 to 28 c. This plant may be a slow starter but is very hardy.

So now you know, plants add ambiance, help keep your tank clean, provide shelter for your fish and are not hard to grow provided you give them enough light and good water conditions.

Lee Dobbins writes for http://www.fish-tank-guide.com where you can get more articles on aquarium care and setup.

What You Should Know About Feeding Tropical Fish

No matter what type of fish you have, whether it's an anemone, coral or crustacean...they will fall into one of three types of feeder.

Carnivores. These types of feeders eat other fish. They are all either predators or scavengers. Predators like to hunt for their food, so they may be uninterested in what you're feeding them, if they want to hunt instead. Once a predator has eaten, it may not feel the urge to eat again for a few days. Scavengers are more opportunistic, and usually prefer to eat the leftovers left by predators.

Herbivores. These types of feeders eat many marine plants and algae. To find their food, they spend their days moving around and grazing, picking up food whenever they can find it.

Omnivores. These types of fish are a mixture of the two above. They like to eat a combination of corals, crustaceans, invertebrates and also plants and algae.

It's important to remember that when you put food in your tank, many of your fish will ignore it for a while first. Because they aren't "fed" when they are in the ocean, they just aren't accustomed to being served food. Some of your fish will eventually learn that you are giving them food, but many others won't.

Herbivores and omnivores tend to adapt to being tank-fed quicker than other types of feeders. However, some breeds, Angels comes to mind, are used to finding their food on the ocean floor rather than free floating, so it will take a little long for them to understand.

How often should you feed your fish?

It's a good idea to stick to feeding your fish just once a day, and to feed them no more than they can eat in one minute. To some people this may seem like not enough, but if your fish aren't hurrying to eat up the food within a minute, they simply aren't hungry enough to need feeding.

Learn more about keeping tropical fish here: tropical fish [http://www.tropical-fish-blog.com]

Goldfish Care

The fish tank is the most important thing for your fish. Goldfish get their air from the surface, so get a tank that has a lot of surface area. In order to calculate the surface area, multiply the aquarium's length in inches by its depth in inches. For every inch of your fish's length, you must have 30 square inches of surface area. So if your fish is three inches long, you need 90 square inches.

Your goldfish needs to have the water at the right quality to be healthy. Tap water is usually okay to use, but try to let the faucet run for a minute or so before taking any water. Before you use the water, you need to let it sit out overnight. This will get rid of any chlorine in the water.

The water in your tank must be kept clean. You can accomplish this by doing water changes. Don't change all the water at once though. You just do a partial water change. About once a week you should do a 30% water change. If your tank is ten gallons, then change out three gallons of the water. Remember to let the new water sit out overnight before putting it in the tank. Take out the three gallons of old water and slowly add the 3 gallons of fresh water. The best way to remove the water from the aquarium is by using a siphon hose. You can also use this to vacuum the gravel.

Your goldfish will need to be fed every day. There are many commercial goldfish foods that will work fine. Be sure you don't overfeed your fish though. Don't feed more food than they can eat in a couple of minutes. If they don't eat all the food, you should remove it from the tank or it will make the aquarium dirty.

A filter for your tank is highly recommended. This will keep your water clean and remove and impurities in the tank. An external box filter works great because it doesn't take up space in your tank and adds more oxygen for your fish.

There are also a few other things you will need for your tank. A hood should be added to prevent any fish from jumping out or dust falling in. An airstone should also be put in the tank. It puts bubbles into the water which keeps the water oxygenated. At the bottom of your tank, you should put an eighth of an inch of gravel. Your goldfish will really like this.

If you do these things for your fish, they will be very healthy and happy. Try to watch your fish everyday so you will notice if they are acting strangely. If they are acting funny, something in your tank is probably wrong.

Michael Russell

Your Independent guide to Aquariums [http://aquarium-fish-and-supplies.com/]

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Wednesday, July 31, 2013